Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They preserve land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on